Instrument Panel

Being generally happy with the mockup version of the instrument panel I transferred the outline onto a sheet of 3mm thick aluminium. Not too surprisingly this is a lot harder to work into shape than the low density fibre board version plus it had to have an even gap around the edge so that at a later date I can place a thin piece of trim around the edge to match the interior of the car. 

Shaping the panel took a number of hours and I have no idea how many times I trial fitted it. Eventually I was happy and then worked out where the 5 brass mounting screws would be. I had planned ahead and the bodywork team had welded in thick tabs in perpetration for drilling and tapping. So all I had to do was drill a 3mm hole through the panel and the mounting tab to be sure the hole was in the same place on both parts. Next the tab on the car was drilled out to 4.25mm and tapped to take the 3BA brass bolts. The Instrument panel holes were drilled out to 6mm giving me about 1mm of clearance. 

The panel was bolted in with the protective film still in place. That will provide 2 functions: protection from damage whilst I drill sand and finish all the holes for the guages and the old switch etc, plus also it allows me to use it as a surface i can write in to mark out where all those switches and gauges will eventually be placed.

In the picture below you can see the new panel and the accurately placed guage images, the battery on-off switch and the klaxon button. I quite like the layout and think it should look quite nice once the aluminium has been semi polished. 

Next task is to cut all those holes out and a cutout for the steering column when it is raised back into position. 

Pipe Runs

Making fuel lines is a little frustrating but ultimately satisfying. Frustrating because when you bend pipe you only get one shot at it. Any one bend in the wrong place or at the wrong angle means throwing that piece away because you can’t un-bend it. Satisfying because whilst you know that no one will ever appreciate the work it took, YOU know that no one noticing it means you got it right…

Putting pipe runs to one side for a minute, having managed to get all the engine cooling elements fabricated,  sealed and holding water – I shifted my attention to the electricals and I have I *think* put the distributor into a position where it should be close enough to allow the engine to start, it can be adjusted once the engine is running.  There are no ignition timing marks on these cars plus I have updated the internals of the distributor to be electronic (and not need the unreliable points) so it is now impossible to tell visually or otherwise when the high voltage surge would be sent to a spark plug.

The carburetors have been setup based on experience in what I will call a ‘default’ position which again should be close enough to allow the engine to breathe but will need adjustment for maximum power (coughs theatrically). I have adjusted all the throttle linkages so that both carburetors open together and adjusted all the linkages from the throttle pedal to the carburetors taking out the loose play. I also had the foresight to fabricate a solid pedal stop in order to prevent a heavy right foot bending the carburetor linkages but all of that is now in place and ready to go

So back to the title of this post – pipe runs, more specifically – fuel.

In early motoring history fuel was fed to the engine using gravity requiring the fuel tank to be above the engine, technology moved on and by the 1920’s cars commonly had a hand-operated pump on the dashboard which pressurised the fuel tank with air. (yes seriously) following pneumatic principles, the compressed air pushed the fuel out of the tank towards the engine. When you stop the engine there is a manually operated tap on the fuel tank to let the pressurised air out again. The fundamental flaw in that design is that you needed to rebuild the air pressure over a surprisingly short distance. One of the jobs of a riding mechanic was to operate that pump throughout the journey. Luckily Riley’s were always on the forefront of design and in the 30’s it was common to have an electric fuel pump mounted onto the bulkhead in the engine bay. Thank you Percy.

Where the pump is mounted is not an aesthetic decision – these pumps are not able to ‘suck’ fuel up to a great height and they also need to be close to the carburetors to keep the pipe run short.

In my car, there are not actually many places the pump can be mounted. Once a decision was made, I then had to work out how to route the copper pipe from the pump to the carburetors making sure it would not be in the way of any moving parts such as the gearbox linkage.  I also have to factor in how the pipe from the fuel tank gets to the pump. 5/16 copper pipe doesn’t bend at acute angles so the shape of the pipe run also needs to consider those bend angles. Back to the first paragraph – get the angles wrong and you throw away the pipe. A challenge – I like it.

I first worked out how the pipe needs to route to get to the bulkhead, it had to go up and over the gearbox linkage but not obstruct the fuel mixture adjustment nut on the rear carburetor. Now I had to work out where the pump could sit giving me enough room for the inlet pipe and the outlet pipe. It was soon apparent that this was going to be a complex piece of pipe bending.

The picture below shows you just how complex it needed to be and the tool that pulls the pipe around a mandrel and into shape:

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The full 360 degree bend (which was quite interesting to achieve!) is to allow the pipe to have some flexibility – the engine will move when it is running – the fuel pump is bolted to a non moving surface. If the pipe was rigid; over time the to and fro movement would cause a fracture in the pipe and the fuel pump would happily provide a pressurised spray of fuel all over a hot engine. This is something I am fairly keen to avoid.

In the picture below you can see the pump-to-carburettor pipe in its final position. I am rather proud to say this was achieved on my second attempt. The only reason had to reject the first try was because I wasnt paying sufficient attention and kinked one bend because the pipe fed into tool incorrectly. But I am rather pleased with only needing two tries. I suspect the experience gained restoring my Etype Jaguar (that blog is at which had a LOT of pipes that needed complex shaping, had given me sufficient knowledge to progress with confidence.

Out of the left side of the pump will be another pipe that will run straight down, back under the car along the inside of the chassis rail to the fuel tank – I have that excitement to look forward to another day – thats a 6 foot pipe to play with…

Once both pipes are finished I will solder the connections on and then antique the pipe work so that it matches my earlier brass work that can be seen below.
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Oh how I laughed… i thought i had fitted all the parts i need to in order for the engine to hold water, sadly I found that was not the case. The hoses needed clamps, the pipe from the waterpump to the side of the engine was loose but most annoyingly – the exhaust manifold studs are it transpires drilled into the water jacket. Naturally when I filled up the radiator – i had 4 nice waterfalls…

Oh. I would normally just put a few drops of stud sealer onto the threads or more often as not seal the threads with PTFE tape but this is the exhaust manifold and it will get jolly hot. Much pondering later and many conversations with other Vintage car owners i opted for both PTFE tape and thread sealer. So the exhaust manifold is now fully bolted into place. I have jumped over the joys of making the exhaust manifold gaskets after the many hours of filing the holes of the 10mm thick stainless steel manifold.

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So here are all the completed components of the cooling…

The non standard (but period) waterpump complete with a brass bung (crafted on the lathe) to fill in another inlet hole that i have no use for.
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The non standard pipe work from the waterpump to the radiator and the one into the side of the engine
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The non standard alloy pipe from the top of the engine up to the radiator – also fitted with the sender for the temperature guage
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So now in theory I have a thermo-syphoning cooling system assisted by a mechanically driven water pump.