Engine block repairs Part 2

The cracked block repair seems to be holding up or at least for a moment, it is keeping the water on the inside which is a positive step but I noticed a small dribble from one of the 3 hot spot tubes. These are an archaic idea stemming back to when petrol was of a poor quality, heat from the exhaust manifold and engine block was passed through the block to the inlet manifold to stop the carburettor(s) icing up. That doesn’t happen these days so the tubes are redundant. Trouble is although they are hot air tubes they route through the waterway of the engine block and of course they slowly corrode. The solution is to seal up the tubes so that it does not matter if they leak or not… so thats what i will have to do.

Otherwise the engine is now clean the repaired section is suitably not visible and it is looking quite nice. NOW i want it to get dusty and stop looking so nice…

Its painted a dark blue to ‘match’ the colour of the car bodywork, but the chassis will be black.


Chassis Mods + Engine crack + petrol tank

Chasis mounts:
I took maximum advantage of some fine weather this weekend to unleash the mighty angle grinder and remove those pesky body mount brackets. The metal used was close  to 4mm thick, which coupled with a thick bead of weld meant that the thickness to be removed was probably around 7mm of aged steel. The Anglelgrinder with a cutting disk and then a grinding disk did its job albeit it a very noisy way over a couple of hours, on the plus side 4 of the 8 big mounts are now gone leaving me only the 4 small ones.

The cracked engine block:
Cleaned up all the surrounding metal with…. yes my trusty angle grinder this time using a ‘twisted wire’ attachment which is a seriously dangerous thing to get you hands anywhere near as it is designed for ripping paint and rust off metal objects. The block cleaned up ok but heating it up took a while even using oxy-accetelene which meant that the flux didn’t really stand a chance of doing its job. Filling the tiny holes with lead’ appeared to work but i am not 100% confident but perhaps the metal filler I used over the top to smooth out (hide) the repair will help. With Vintage cars the water is not under any pressure at all so as long as the repair is waterproof we may be okay. Trouble is I won’t be able to tell until the engine is running fully…

Petrol Tank
Easily removed only to discover that it had been repaired at some time in its life with… body filler… below is a picture of the underside of the tank..

That ‘lump’ obscures the drain plug and a couple of holes. Repairable though
I will need to cut out the rot and silver solder in a replacement bottom plate and drain plug. Not particularly difficult but time-consuming. Finish that off with blasting the outside to remove rust for painting and then sealing the inside with modern tank sealer and away we go…

Engine to waterpump pipe
In the ‘engine repair’ picture above you can see an alluminium pipe that originally connected straight to the bottom of the radiator. I will be inserting the rebuilt water pump in-between those so that pipe needs to come off so that I can dig all the sludge out of the engine. It finally freed up and this corroded ‘anchor’ needs a bit of loving. Oxalic acid will remove all the rust and hopefully it can be re-used.

Above, you can see what the Oxalic acid did overnight. As you can see all the rust has been dissolved so what is left is solid metal albeit tatty looking but it is strong enough to hold an alloy pipe onto the block and its inside the waterway – no-one sees it…